BC Coast #2


Setting out: That’s Skyla enjoying a quiet moment on terra firma before boarding the boat. It’s deceptively calm in the Kitamaat Village harbor–once we got outside and turned the corner it was blowing 30 kts with galloping “white horses” as far as we could see. Too rough for pix, and Skyla spent an hour or so holding a broken galley cabinet shut while stuff was falling and rolling around the decks.


That’s Weston enjoying the last calm water we’d see for the better part of the day.


With all the weather, we had to change plans and shorten our planned progress for the day before the skiff we were towing completely beat the big boat to pieces. Plus, those of us with fillings in our teeth wanted to keep them there. The silver lining, though, is that we pulled into a bay protected from the southeast gale and found a creek mouth stacked with bright chrome pink salmon (which we had a ton of fun catching for crab bait), and just offshore, some of the biggest Dungeness crabs the kids and I have ever seen. Honest nine inchers, in 25-feet of water, filling the rings after a 15-minute soak. More than we could eat, so the kids opted to release an entire ring’s worth–probably more than a dozen.


This is our first boat dinner…and exactly the way I like to eat crab: where you can crunch the shells and toss ’em overboard as you eat.


The other silver lining was a beautiful anchorage out of the wind. That’s “our” vessel, the Suncrest, a 42-foot retired halibut boat that was home for the week. I should note here that this wasn’t purely a vacation, as I’m working on a story about traveling north to experience what our home waters of Puget Sound were like a hundred years ago, and the insane threats to this pristine area from resource-extraction corporations. So we had a photographer along (his images will be vastly superior to my snapshots) and the kids and I tried to keep good notes in our journals. Not sure where the piece will be published yet, but will let you know when I do. In the mean time, stay tuned for our travels farther west into the waters of even more overwhelming plenty.


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