Magic Carpet Ride

There is a kind of magic involved when you get up on a surfboard and start to go. A disbelief that the forces of hydraulics, gravity, tide and distant storms mysteriously combine to propel you forward, as if flying. It’s a feeling you want to last forever, and when the wave inevitably peters out or you hit the beach, you want that feeling again and again. Earlier this spring we were fortunate enough to escape the chilly weather here for family time–Thanks, Mom!–in the warmth of one of our favorite places, the island of Kauai. And both kids graduated from boogie boards to standing up for long rides on perfect waves that rolled in behind a rocky point. I was stoked for them to feel the magic. As I’ve found with our fishing together, it was far more fun for me, as their dad, to help and watch them ride than to catch a wave or fish myself. And man, what a lot of fun! I’m pretty sure if we lived on that island instead of our own, surf would take over our lives. And I’d be okay with that. Probably better than okay. But then, I’d miss the cool air and the smell of evergreens and chasing salmon here in the Pacific Northwest, so we’ll just call it a wash and consider ourselves lucky. Very lucky indeed.

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