Fish Into Food

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Processing season is upon us, and we’re in full juggling mode. The goal is to turn chrome-bright, fat-laden king salmon (above) into our favorite foods. I think it’s tossup for all of us between hot-smoked salmon and ikura salmon caviar. Of course, we also love it salted and fresh on the grill, and the leftovers in sandwiches. But for now, especially with these summer kings, which have less fat than the spring fish, we’re staying focused on smoking, salting and preserving.

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This is the shop fridge holding a combination of pre- and post-brined salmon strips and chunks, along with two bins of brine. For our taste, we like a liquid brine made from 2/3 cup coarse Kosher salt, 1-1/2 cups dark brown sugar for every 9 cups of water. This year, in an effort to speed up our processing, I’m drying the brined salmon for 5 hours with a box fan blowing directly over the fish, then hot smoking at 205 degrees for about 7 hours. Results are delicious.

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And here’s another batch of ikura, separated from the membrane using hardware cloth, and just starting to cure with 1/2 tsp Kosher salt, 1 tsp soy sauce and 1-1/2 tsp sake per 2 cups of eggs. Three days in the fridge to cure, then, if there’s any left, we put it in jars and freeze. But mostly it’s eaten up right away, on steamed rice, on crackers with cream cheese, or in Skyla’s case, by the spoonful. At the rate we’re mowing through the processed goods, we’re going to need more fish and more processing if we want any for winter. I think we’re up for it.

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Fish Into Food

This time of year, we spend almost as much time processing fish as we do fishing. Add in all the clean up–of boat and fishing gear, fish boxes, ice chests, smoker racks, brine bins, etc–and the whole enterprise nearly becomes a full-time job. But the results are more than worth it. Nothing fancy in our preparations, but it feels like a pretty luxurious diet.

The first picture above shows king salmon chunks just out of the brine, air drying before going into the smoker. Next to that is a plate of king collars, or kama, (an underutilized but delicious, fatty, part of the fish, and Skyla’s favorite) just out of the smoker. And finally, a bowl of salmon caviar just starting to marinate.

On the salmon caviar, or ikura, I’m pretty sure it’s my favorite part of a salmon to eat. The individual eggs pop in your mouth with a savory, incredibly rich flavor that’s perfect on rice or with cream cheese and crisp, rosemary crackers. Or, as the kids often prefer, by the spoonful straight out of the jar. Even people who think “Yuck! Bait” generally change their minds once they try these little jewels.

Recently, I’ve been getting requests for the recipe. So, if you’re a fisherman or have access to fresh salmon, here’s how I do it:

The best quality salmon caviar starts with, obviously enough, a fresh female salmon. I bleed and ice the fish as soon as it’s in the boat, then clean it carefully to keep the eggs clean. The eggs are removed in their skeins and blotted with a paper towel.

In the kitchen, I take a one-foot square of quarter-inch hardware cloth (galvanized screen), and push the eggs through it and into a bowl below. This separates the eggs from the membrane and leaves you with a bowl of individual eggs. Give the eggs a few rinses with salt water (I just sprinkle some kosher salt on and add cold fresh water to the bowl) and drain by pouring the eggs into a seive.

Put the clean, drained eggs into a bowl and add 1 tsp soy sauce, 1.5 tsp sake (rice wine), and 1/4 tsp kosher salt for each cup of eggs. Cover and refrigerate for two or three days. Then you can either eat them immediately or divide up into small jars and freeze. For higher food safety, the freezing process is recommended, but the texture of the thawed eggs isn’t quite as good as fresh. Still great, though. And we eat quite a bit both fresh and frozen. Enjoy!